Day 1
Wednesday, September 07, 2005
6:30am
- We arrived at Keflavik Airport, Iceland, into a blazing sunrise over the North Atlantic Ocean. (66 degs. N)
We landed onto a moonscape, such that it was hard to tell how far from the ground you were. The wings looked as if they could brush the ground, yet, we were still nearly 8,000 ft. up! There were simply no reference points!
It wasn't until I saw a road carved out of the lava fields, that I could get a proper perspective.
There were no buildings, people, or trees, if you can imagine, near the landing field. Looking down, you just saw these strange clumps, for miles, but couldn't tell what they were.
I can't go without mentioning the Iceland Air flight crew. On the way over [from MNPLS, USA], they looked like they'd stepped out of a Hollywood movie. The most beautiful people - ultra-high cheekbones, tall, thin, golden-tanned skin, some were blond, some with French twists, wearing those classic high heels and Pan Am-esque pillbox hats! As they walked through the boarding lounge, ALL the heads turned!
The lady sitting next to me couldn't help but comment - "they must be Danish - they're all so beautiful, there!"
Side note: The crew who gets to come to America, gets at least a 24 hr. layover, (as opposed to other flights which require you to hop right back on a plane and go back) - so these are the cream of the crop of the Iceland Air crew.
Got through customs, took maybe 15 mins, then picked up the rental car, with little trouble - (Icelanders speak the most perfect English - closer to London English, though) - Stopped by the Cash Machine, just outside the Rental Car office, and withdrew some Krona.
We, then, tried to find coffee. But, ended up with vending machine coffee from the small cafeteria. (This was to be a rule, rather than the exception, we soon discovered)! Downed that, and stepped outside into the crisp 50 degree wind-chilled air. Fortunately, I bought a hooded sweatshirt at MNPLS airport - as all my jackets were buried in the suitcase! (It was in the 80's back in Chicago)!
I noticed that my breathing was unusually difficult, which stayed consistent, throughout the 5 days, there. The airport is at sea level, so that should have been no problem - so maybe it had something to do with the extreme northerly latitude - 66 degrees N.
Anyway, we piled into the rental car and drove E. in the direction of Reykjavik, where our hotel was, and decided to take a little side-trip, since we had several hours to kill before check-in.
We detoured S. to the Interior of the Reykjanes Peninsula (SW Iceland). The landscape was barren. Not a tree in sight. The winding blacktop road took us through a series of nonsensical roundabouts, with no signage, into a desolate region of black, volcanic lava fields, with these unusual lava formations, like statues or sculptures, sticking up out of nowhere.
There was zero traffic. No people. No noise. We maybe passed two cars, the entire morning. Soon, the road changed to gravel, as we entered this pristine, volcanic lake region - Lake Kleifarvatan - (Center of map), like unto another planet!
We came upon an enormous, still lake, devoid of trees and wildlife - said to be home to a giant worm-monster, according to local legend. Was this an Icelandic twist on the Lochness Monster?
The lake was surrounded by high, jagged cliffs, and went on for what seemed to be miles and miles! We pulled up at a turn-out and parked. We walked the wooden planks, over boiling hot-pots of mud, steaming cauldrons of 120 deg. geothermal heat, from thousands of feet below the surface.
Then, climbed a wooden stairway, in the steam, leading to a high, deserted platform overlooking the lake.
Fact: The entire country is powered from these sources, and there is zero pollution, as there are no fossil fuels, burned! Everything is powered by steam from these geothermic sources from the Earth.
We continued our hike, in a stiff 50 deg. wind sheer, up a cliff to a lookout. We stood gazing at the deep blue lake, surrounded by eerie puffs of sulfuric steam! Very surreal! No people. Absolute stillness. Just the bubbling of these hotpots, echoing off the craters!
We hiked back to the car, and resumed our drive, cutting across to the other side of the peninsula, following the gravel road amid slate-black volcanic cliffs and lava fields until we reached the black-sanded shore. There, we spied the black spire of a lone church, out in the middle of nowhere.
We drove down a dirt path, towards it, to get a closer look. We passed some Icelandic horses, (short legs, and long manes), grazing at a farm, nearby, along with many Icelandic sheep, ambling amicably in open pastures.
There was a small restaurant-type building, (with a "Closed" sign on the door), and what looked to be a caretaker's house, nearby. But, no sign of anyone home. Another half-mile, and we came to the church. The name on the gate proclaimed "Strandarkirkja" (Strand church).
Language Note: We quickly learned the secret to Icelandic language is the accent is ALWAYS on the first syllable, and it is similar to German - the first word describes the second.
Thereupon, finding the gate unlocked . . .
. . . We entered and proceeded up to the front door. Finding it, likewise unlocked, we entered, tentatively!
To our amazement, we discovered the lights ablaze, as if we had been expected! (Save for an empty car, some 30 miles, back at the boardwalk, the sheep and horses, we had not encountered another soul since we left the airport, some 60 mi back)!
Once inside the Strandarkirkja, we found it quite similar to our Protestant Lutheran Churches, back home, save for the meticulously preserved antique furnishings. There was a dark, old, antique pump organ beside the altar in the sanctuary, with a book of Icelandic hymns opened up, as if it had recently been sung from. The wooden bulletin above it, provided the latest totals for what appear to be Worship Service attendance, or perhaps the offering before and after - in Icelandic. The number 1865 at the top, was probably the year the church was built.
Curiously, we climbed a narrow, winding staircase to the organ loft, which also contained an organ, this one a modern pipe organ. The loft doubled as the bell tower, affording a spectacular view of the moon-scaped-coastline we had just traversed. Out of the spired window, we saw the meticulously kept cemetery, below, and a large statue of what looked to be a pioneer woman, just a few meters down a gravel path.
Note: I have no idea what that black object in the front of the statue is, in the picture, above, it did not appear in any of the other photos - at first it looked like a specter - but probably just a spot on the glass.
We walked back downstairs, and out to the "kirkja" grounds, and out to the statue, and found everything was so well-kempt, neat as a pin! Another noticable German trait.
. . .Continuing on -We walked down a jagged staircase of rock to the shoreline, behind the "kirkja" to hear the absolute stillness, save for the gently crashing waves upon black rock.
The water was crystal clear, and icy, I couldn't resist running my fingers through it! A beautiful experience!
Stayed a few more minutes, then continued on our journey around the coast. And I do mean AROUND! We drove for miles and miles, encountering maybe two cars, and a couple of small fishing hamlets, both looked to be deserted.
The gravel road kept us below 50 mph, the entire way, but the mountains and volcanoes along the shore were certainly worth the extra time!
We finally met the highway into Reykjavik, and began to see some signs of life. We noticed dozens of cranes, putting up new housing, just outside of the city, much like a boom town.
We arrived in the city, itself around noon, and found the hotel, tucked cozily down a narrow, winding street, in this most picturesque European city!
The city was immaculate, with brightly painted houses and buildings, (mostly constructed of tin and concrete, as timber is in short supply, there), verdant parks and ponds, birds, bright flowers, and trees. (Trees are not abundant in most other parts of Iceland - due to the glacial and volcanic landscape over most of the island).
We parked the car, and walked over to the beautiful Borg Hotel, in the center of town, across from the main square, (which is central to the university, City Hall, the main business district, as well as Althing (Parliament).
Still, too early to check in, we dropped our bags at the front desk, and went to find a much-needed cup of coffee! Luckily, the Paris Cafe was situated across the street, so we stopped in for a java and a sandwich. We hit the jackpot! We were served Americanos (don't even THINK of asking for any deviation from the norm), and sandwiches on the freshest baguettes, ever! (This place would be a keeper)!
After lunch, we went to get more cash for shopping, at the bank-across-the-street's cash machine, and then went to the post office, across from that, to pick up stamps and postcards.
Walked around the downtown, to get familiar with shops and restaurants, and the like, and finally checked back into the hotel. The front desk was efficient, if pleasant. Not exactly over-friendly. But, not rude, either. Their English was more London English, cultured and perfect-sounding. Not US, though. Very impressive. Another blond bombshell at the front desk. Almost intimidating, with the cool attitude. Very arresting, slightly annoying, indeed! One thing we grew more than a little annoyed with, was the over-use of the word "PLEASE" - when said wrong, it sounded mildly demanding.
We were left to carry our own bags upstairs, due to minimal staff, and using a vintage cage elevator we managed to see ourselves into the room. The ceilings were unusually high, but this was the hotel of 3 US presidents, the finest the city had to offer. The room was huge, and the finest fixtures had been added to the bathroom. Large windows, with icicle-looking frosting on the lower halves- opening out to what would be the Leif Erikson church and statue, had we been one floor higher!
After unpacking, and freshening up, we tried to plug in the laptop - and ended up blowing the power to the entire floor, if you can believe THAT!
When we walked outside, I saw a plumber's van, and just had to laugh, wondering what kind of place this was!!!
Well, after checking with the front desk, we learned that we'd blown a fuse (and we were told that sometimes plugging in more than 3 appliances in the room, would cause this). Who knew? We left the hotel, for a walk, and when we returned, everything was fine. Whew!
We went walking around the Old Town, shopping and sightseeing.
Stopped by the Cafe Cosy for a coffee, then more sightseeing, then back to the Cosy for a pint of Viking beer, and watched the sun go down. Called it an early night, and went back to the hotel for some much-needed sleep.
Reflections on the End of Day 1 in Iceland!
